Sedona, AZ

Red Rock 'n' Roll

Mention that you're taking the family to Sedona, and you'll hear a chorus of "oohs" and "ahs" from those in the know. Expect the same response from your backseat brood, as they spot the dramatic red ridges and pinnacles often seen in movies and on TV.

Sedona is about rocks. Really cool ones. They're the main attraction in this high-desert town, once inhabited by the Anasazi Indians. More than 4 million people ogle the scenery each year, on their way to the Grand Canyon. But locals know Sedona is a destination in its own right. And more outdoor-oriented families are finding that out, too.

Surrounded by national forest and bisected by lush Oak Creek Canyon, this natural "amusement park" is bursting with hiking and biking trails, natural swimming holes, campgrounds, and ancient Indian ruins to explore.

Don't like roughing it? Not to worry. There are luxury resorts, art galleries, shopping, and golf courses, all with drop-dead-gorgeous views of -- you guessed it -- red rock. Most families only spend a weekend here. But insiders say it takes at least five days to do Sedona right.

On Four Wheels

It's easy to see Sedona by car; you'll get a red-rock eyeful just driving through town. But to gawk without causing a traffic jam (a common Sedona occurrence), head for the backcountry, where you'll find panoramic views and license to rubberneck. Here are two of the most popular drives:

Maple Leaves, copyright
Ray and Joanne Reed

• Red Rock Loop Road
  The upper end of this loop takes you to Red Rock Crossing, one of the most photographed scenes in the U.S. Here, you can wade across Oak Creek while admiring formidable Cathedral Rock in the background.
• Schnebly Hill Road
  Snaking through valleys and over ridgetops, this unpaved 11-mile road has some of the best views in the area. Look for Snoopy Rock, a formation resembling the cartoon character lying down. And be careful: Do not drive this road in winter or during summer storms.

Jeep vehicle tours are another way to see Sedona's sights without burning a calorie; you can rent a 4WD vehicle or take a guided backcountry tour. The most kid-friendly tour we found? A Day in the West, a bumpy trip over fire roads and hiking trails that ends at a 90-acre ranch complete with western town movie set, horseback riding, and cowboy cookouts. The tour is suitable for all ages, but those under 6 are not permitted on horses.

On Your Own Steam

Mount Wilson, copyright Bob Clemenz

Hiking is Sedona's most popular pastime. The National Forest Service and City of Sedona maintain more than 135 local trails, most of which are easy to moderate and can be hiked in 1-2 hours. For more detail, pick up a copy of Sedona Hikes by Richard and Sherry Mangum (Hexagon Press, 2003) at any local bookstore. This excellent trail guide includes a listing of the author's "personal favorites."

• Easy
  Red Rock State Park is the best bet for children 6 and under. You'll find safe strolls, great views, and ranger-led nature tours.
• Moderate
  Older kids will enjoy more challenging hikes to Boynton Canyon or Secret Canyon and the rock scramble to Vultee Arch. Though harder, there's a payoff: Most lead to arches, caves, and petroglyphs carved into rock by Sinaguan Indians.
• Hard
  The mountain goats in your clan will appreciate Cathedral Rock and AB Young Trails. They're tough but rewarding, with stunning views at the end.

Next to hiking, biking is Sedona's big sport. The Bell Rock Pathway bike trail is 7 miles roundtrip on packed dirt, winding through the rock formations. The trailhead starts in the Village of Oak Creek, just 7 miles south of town. Rentals (and coffee) are available right across the street from the trailhead at Bike and Bean.

Up the Canyon

Fall in Oak Creek, copyright
Ray and Joanne Reed

Don't leave Sedona without taking the drive up Oak Creek Canyon. This spectacular, 16-mile gorge features streams, waterfalls, and red rock cliffs. Plan on spending a full day at one or more of these favorite spots:

• West Fork Trail
  This popular, canyon-bottom trail is suitable for children of all ages. It's 6 miles roundtrip and criss-crosses Oak Creek the whole way. But you need only hike a mile or two to enjoy the scenery. (Tip: Wear sneakers; you'll be in ankle deep water a lot.)
• Slide Rock State Park
  The star of this park is a natural 30-foot water slide. Plan at least half a day here, endlessly riding the current along this rocky Oak Creek chute. (Tip: Rock can be unforgiving, so wear cutoffs, not bathing suits.)
• Grasshopper Point
  Just a few miles away is the less crowded Oak Creek swimming hole.

Shopping, Vortexes, and More

The best way to end a day in Sedona? Watching a sunset. Drive or hike to Bell Rock or Airport Mesa, two of Sedona's four "energy vortexes," to witness a brilliant color display that lasts long after the sun goes down. Besides the "light show," new agers flock to these electromagnetically charged spots for their alleged healing powers.

Spend the rest of the evening on Main Street, where upscale shops and restaurants coexist with tacky T-shirt emporiums. Don't waste your time at Tlaquepaque, however. This highly-touted, faux-Spanish colonial village is all about overpriced art and eats. If you're visiting between Thanksgiving and New Year's Day, do stop by Los Abrigados Resort and Spa next door to see the annual Red Rock Fantasy of Lights, a brilliant holiday display featuring a million lights.

Dashboard

Type of trip: Outdoor adventure, scenic drive, educational

Best ages: 6 and up

Ideal trip length: Weekend; 4-5 days is best.

Distance: Grand Canyon (110 miles); Phoenix (120 miles); Tucson (226 miles)

Best time to go: March, June, August, and November for lower rates and fewer crowds

Weather: 55/29 degrees in January; 95/65 degrees in August. August also has highest rainfall, though storms pass quickly.

Lodging: From budget motels to luxury resorts. National Park campsites are plentiful and a cheaper alternative.

Squirm factor: None

If You Go...

Coffee Pot Rock,
copyright Bob Clemenz

Red Rock State Park Five miles southwest on Hwy 89A Phone: 928-282-6907

Slide Rock State Park 7 miles north on Hwy 89A Phone: 928-282-3034

Coconino National Forest Note: 165 campsites at three campgrounds

A Day in the West Phone: 800-973-3662

Red Rock Fantasy of Lights Los Abrigados Resort and Spa Phone: 928-282-1777 November - January

Bike and Bean Bike rentals Phone: 928-284-0210

Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Chamber of Commerce Phone: 800-288-7336

Arizona Office of Tourism Phone: 800-842-8257

Sedona

CArizona

The Inside Scoop

The Cowboy Club restaurant 241 North Hwy 89A Phone: 928-282-4200 Waitresses brandishing toy guns serve standard fare -- and buffalo, rattlesnake, and cactus -- in a Wild West setting.

Side Trips

Sedona may have gotten its name from the town's first white settlers, Carl and Sedona Schnebly, who discovered this high-desert "oasis" in 1902. But the Sinaguan Indians really had first dibs on the place, building their cliffside homes here in the 12th century. Many of those sites are still standing, and worth a sidetrip. The most popular:

• Montezuma Castle National Monument
  25 miles south on Hwy I-17
  Phone: 928-567-3322
  Note: This 20-room, 5-story structure is considered the best-preserved cliff dwelling in the southwest.

• Tuzigoot National Monument
  23 miles west of Sedona
  Phone: 928-634-5564
  Hilltop Sinaguan Indian ruin featuring 100 rooms and a museum with artifacts and exhibits

After the ancients came miners, cowboys, and other pioneers, who turned the hillside town of Jerome into a bawdy frontier outpost. Now, tourists come for the more sedate gift shops, restaurants, art galleries and a State Historic Park recounting the area's mining history. 37 miles southwest on Hwy 89A Phone: Jerome Chamber of Commerce, 928-634-2900

Reviewed April 2004.