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Remove the membrane from the back of 2 racks (2 pounds each) pork baby back ribs. Combine 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1/3 cup brown sugar, 2 teaspoons lemon zest, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 6 cloves minced garlic; rub mixture all over ribs and let stand for 30 minutes. Prepare grill for indirect cooking and heat to medium low. Place prepared wood chips under the grates on the lit side of the grill. Place a foil pan half filled with water on the grates over the wood chips. With grill covered, cook ribs meat side up over the unlit side, turning occasionally, until meat is tender and pulls away from the bone, 5 to 6 hours.
For sauce, saute 3 cloves minced garlic and 3 tablespoons canola oil in a saucepan over medium heat until just golden. Add 1 cup ketchup, 1/4 cup white vinegar, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 2 tablespoons paprika, 1 tablespoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon cayenne, and 1/4 cup water and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Brush sauce over ribs during last 30 minutes of grilling. Serves 4 to 6.